This has to be one of the most ambitious offerings Zenith has ever undertaken. The El Primero high-frequency chronograph celebrates half a century and Zenith is offering aficionados an anniversary boxed set containing three chronographs with emblematic tricolor counters.
A reissue faithful to the first El Primero model of 1969; a Chronomaster El Primero with optimized movement; and a Defy El Primero 21 to 1/100th of a second: the 50-piece limited-edition trilogy ‘conjugates’ high frequency in several tenses.
El Primero, the high-frequency precision timepiece was born in 1969. The anniversary set contains three El Primero models retracing the technical and aesthetic evolution of this precision legend. Presented in a box merging technology with tradition, this collector’s trio with ‘signature’ counters offers vintage, classic or modern. Meanwhile, a still-empty fourth cushion sits ready to welcome the next achievement of Zenith in the universe of very high frequency: 1/1000th of a second!
The El Primero, originally hailed as the first ever automatic chronograph, had innovative features and a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, with an integrated column-wheel construction, a central rotor mounted on ball bearings and over 50 hours of power reserve. It made it the most accurate chronograph in the world and the only one capable of measuring short times to 1/10th of a second. In addition, El Primero established new visual codes, with a range of contrasting colors that enhanced the readability of the counters: light grey for seconds, blue for minutes and anthracite for hours.
Original version
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While El Primero has constantly evolved since its invention, Zenith had never yet offered a reissue faithful to the original model. The anniversary boxed set, in a 50-piece limited edition, includes in its first compartment a perfect reiteration of the 1969 El Primero chronograph. The 38 mm steel case, curved glass with magnifying effect, tricolor counters, tachymeter scale, font, the shapes of the hands and hour markers, as well as the leather strap: all the original codes are present. The shape of the lugs and mushroom pushers are exactly reproduced on this pure “revival” watch. In fact, the only liberties that have been taken are the initially solid back now reveals the movement and the crown logo has been updated. The movement is the El Primero column-wheel chronograph, beating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour and delivering 1/10th of a second precision as well as a 50-hour power reserve. Like the original, it displays the hours, minutes and small seconds, chronograph, tachymeter and date functions, the latter appearing between 4 and 5 o’clock.
Chronomaster 2.0
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A direct descendant of El Primero, the Zenith Chronomaster is its most emblematic contemporary embodiment. A Chronomaster is recognizable at first sight. Its imposing stature, iconic design, and high-frequency mechanism are embedded in the Manufacture’s DNA. Therefore, to celebrate the legendary model from which it originated, the second watch in the case is a Chronomaster, equipped with a new-generation El Primero engine and a new black ceramic bezel. Renamed El Primero 3600, its movement is presented in an optimized version, an update conducted in accordance with the architecture and performance of the legendary El Primero.
With this 2.0 version, the original construction of the El Primero chronograph, consisting of a column wheel and a lever-operated lateral clutch, is visually highlighted and redesigned to enhance its reliability and precision. The most obvious results are the integration of a stop-seconds device for time-setting and a power reserve increased to 60 hours. In addition to its maximized assets, the new Chronomaster has a sportier and more modern look than its contemporaries, featuring a 42 mm steel case topped by a graduated black ceramic bezel, a star-shaped oscillating weight and a rubber strap with contrasting stitching.
Defy El Primero 21 chronograph
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The last element of this trilogy heralds watchmaking of the future. Beating inside the 44 mm titanium case is a revolutionary mechanical movement. Oscillating at a frequency of 360,000 vibrations per hour (50 Hz), ten times higher than its predecessor, it measures and displays one-hundredth of a second on a scale from 1 to 100. Its exclusive dynamic signature is the lightning-quick hand making a full turn of the dial in one second. Its skeleton dial features three solid counters in the original colors – the common denominator of this “tribute” edition – and its contemporary lines, formed by a large fluted crown, flat push pieces, and short lugs, merge seamlessly onto the wrist with a black rubber strap covered with black alligator leather.
Grey palette
Each of the watches is issued in a 50-piece limited edition, the three El Primero anniversary watches, as well as the empty cushion designed to accommodate a future 1/1000th of a second chronograph, are presented in a boxed set. Subtle nuances of grey, leather touches, contemporary woodwork: the presentation box is adorned with the anniversary logo, the satin-brushed grey lid with built-in touch screen opens to reveal a reproduction of a miniature watchmaker’s workbench, complete with a watch mechanism on a rest, adjustable lighting system, magnifying glass, and screwdriver. The screw-locked lower part of the box contains a drawer in which the three El Primero chronographs are nestled.
In a nod to the past, the box contains an actual die of the chronograph’s coupling-wheel bridge (one of the emblematic components of the El Primero movement). This die is an invitation to purchasers to come and visit the Manufacture in Le Locle and to hand-stamp two coupling-wheel bridges. One will leave with the purchaser in his box, and the other, engraved with his name, will be placed as historical testimony on the entrance wall of the attic chosen by Charles Vermot, the Zenith watchmaker who – in the midst of the quartz crisis in the early 1970s – saved the elements essential to the production of the El Primero calibre from destruction by secretly keeping them in that same attic thus enabling its renaissance in 1984.
How much?
TBC
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