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El Primero 50th Anniversary Revival Series: Zenith El Primero A384 50

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1969 was not only the year man landed on the moon, but also the year both Heuer and Zenith unveiled rival automatic chronograph movements for the first time.

50 years on and both brands are hosting anniversary celebrations supported by recreations of iconic watches from the era: a modern reissue of the Monaco in the case of TAG Heuer and now a contemporary El Primero A384 from Zenith joining its Revival series.

More than just a vintage-inspired watch, the Revival is a historically accurate recreation of one Zenith’s most important chronographs.

“With its retro-futuristic styling, timeless proportions and emblematic chronograph calibre, the A384 is the final piece in the El Primero 50th Anniversary Revival series,”

Zenith

Each part of the original A384 from 1969 was digitized so as to be accurately reproduced, from the faceted steel case to the lacquered white and black tachymeter dial.

Zenith El Primero A384 50

On the outside, the only differences are the sapphire crystal instead of an acrylic glass, the display back replacing the solid steel case back. The case retains the same 37mm diameter and 12.60mm height as the original watch. Inside, the A384 movement has been replaced with a modern El Primero 400 chronograph movement.

How much?

CHF 7,900

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The post El Primero 50th Anniversary Revival Series: Zenith El Primero A384 50 appeared first on watchuseek.com.


Must See Monday: Zenith Defy Classic Mykonos Edition

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Like RJ Watches before it, Zenith clearly believes Mykonos to be one of the most coveted of summer destinations.

To celebrate the upbeat spirit of Mykonos, Zenith has created a special rendition of its Defy Classic for its retailer in Greece, GOFAS, in a Limited Edition of only 25 pieces.

Measuring 41mm, the watch is made of blue ceramic. Tough and highly resistant to scratches, the deep blue color is embedded in the material and is not just a superficial layer. With its mix of polished satin-brushed and micro-blasted matte surfaces, the case amplifies the futuristic lines of the Defy Classic.

Recalling the colors of the Greek flag, the open dial has a mix of blue, white and silvery tones that create a sense of harmonic visual depth against a contemporary architectural backdrop.

For the Mykonos Edition, the central star element of the open dial is fashioned in the same blue tone as the case, while the central second’s hand with a star-shaped counterweight is painted in white for this special series. The raised flange ring is also white, with blue markers and applied rhodium indexes filled with blue SuperLumiNova, just like the faceted hands.

Visible through the dial as well as the case back, the Defy Classic Mykonos Edition’s movement is the Elite caliber, featuring a silicon escape-wheel and lever offering precision at a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4 Hz). When fully wound, the automatic Elite movement provides a minimum power reserve of 50 hours.

The sapphire display on the back of the case is emblazoned with the silhouette of Mykonos’ iconic white windmills that have become a symbol of the unique island.

The Defy Classic Mykonos Edition comes on a special strap developed just for this series, featuring a white rubber backing with a blue central element featuring a pattern inspired by the pavements of Mykonos’ cobbled streets.

A second strap is also delivered with the watch, in textured white rubber. The double folding Titanium buckle features a touch of blue with a blue ceramic element on the buckle ahead.

The Defy Classic Mykonos edition, limited to 25 pieces, is available exclusively at GOFAS.

How much?

TBC

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The post Must See Monday: Zenith Defy Classic Mykonos Edition appeared first on watchuseek.com.

Only Watch 2019: Zenith El Primero A386 White Gold

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One lucky El Primero collector will win this one-of-a-kind white gold iteration of the original ZENITH El Primero A386 Revival at this year’s Only Watch auction. And it will be accompanied by a set of equally unique experiences.

Presented in a customized presentation box, the El Primero A386 Revival features a singular turquoise subdial in tribute to this year’s Only Watch theme color, as well as a caseback engraved with Only Watch and Unique Piece inscriptions.

The buyer of this one-off watch will also be rewarded with a special immersion into watchmaking luxury according to Zenith. Like the watches in the 50th-anniversary commemoration box, the Only Watch special edition comes with a lifetime warranty (including service) in honor of the current El Primero 50th anniversary celebration.

It also includes an invitation for the purchaser to visit the Monde étoile de Zenith and the famous Grenier of its Manufacture in Le Locle, the attic where Charles Vermot hid the famous tools for the El Primero movement that was to revolutionize Zenith’s future.

Lastly and most significantly of all, the owner will be a guest at the closing event in Geneva that will conclude the El Primero 50th anniversary “Le Grenier Club” tour in style. Hosted by Zenith in celebration of half a century of innovation and precision represented by the legendary El Primero high-frequency chronograph, the world tour consists of dinners held in unexpected locations such as art galleries and exceptional private properties, in some of the world’s greatest cities including Milan, London, Hong Kong, and Singapore, before the grand finale in Geneva.

In another nod to the significant number 50, each dinner hosts 50 special guests including retailers, friends of the brand, final customers, collectors, press, and influencers, who are treated to a number of surprises.

In addition to attending this once in a lifetime event, the new owner of the Only Watch El Primero A386 White Gold will be presented with a VIP package for two including hotel accommodation and a range of exclusive experiences to prolong the magic of this special 50th celebration.

Zenith El Primero A386 White Gold for Only Watch 2019

About Only Watch

Only Watch comes around once every two years in aid of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. This year the auction is set to take place on November 9th at Christie’s Geneva.

Up for auction are 52 novelties, each one of them a one-off, from some of the world’s finest watchmakers. This year’s Only Watch auction is on course to beat 2017’s record-breaking haul of over $12 million dollars.

 

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Zapata Zips Across the English Channel Wearing a Zenith Pilot Type 20 Adventure

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Franky Zapata has successfully completed his second attempt at a unique solo flight from France to England. The 40-year-old Frenchman successfully traveled 35 kilometers across the English Channel as crowds cheered him on.

At the joystick of his jet-propelled Flyboard Air, and with a Zenith Type 20 Chronograph Adventure watch strapped to his wrist, Monsieur Zapata, a new friend of Zenith, commemorated the 110th anniversary of Louis Bleriot’s historic 1909 flight across the English Channel.

Franky Zapata crosses the English Channel on his Flyboard Air

Zapata started his journey from Sangatte beach, in Calais, at 7.16am on Sunday traveling all the way to the White Cliffs of Dover.

While Bleriot’s repeated previous failures had led him to be dubbed “the king of wrecks” until he finally crossed the Channel in 1909, Zapata required just two attempts to achieve his hoverboard dream.  The Flyboard Air, which comprises a platform just about accommodating his two feet, is powered by five turbojet engines and can reach an altitude of up to 10,000 feet.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Adventure

The sturdy Zenith Pilot Type 20 Adventure he wore for the history-making journey has a user-friendly wide ratcheted crown and is driven by an automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement with a 50-hour power reserve.

Its easily legible grained khaki green dial features oversized Arabic numerals entirely made of Super-LumiNova®, while its bronze 45 mm case is secured to the wrist by a khaki matrix calfskin leather strap or a fully-interchangeable camouflage fabric alternative.

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Flieger Friday: El Primero Revival A384 Edge of Space Limited Edition

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If you are not familiar with the Bamford Watch Department (BWD), they are the watch industry’s equivalent of Porsche tuning workshops, Singer and RWB, from the auto industry.  BWD is known for customizing watches and transforming a traditional watch into a bold object with injection of unconventional design, colors, and innovative materials. BWD, based in London, started out as an aftermarket watch customization shop.  As their profile grew in the watch industry, they started to officially partner with Swiss brands like Hublot, Tag Heuer, and Zenith (all owned by LVMH group).  Official partnership was important to both BWD and the end customer, since it protected the warranty of the watch after the customization.

In 2018, BWD collaborated with Zenith, and on-line retailer Mr Porter, on customizing Zenith Heritage 146 El Primero watch. The 25-piece limited-edition watch known as “Solar Blue” was a successful project with all the watches being sold. In October 2019, a second collaboration was announced, and this time the canvas is Zenith’s El Primero A384, a retro chronograph with design elements from the 60s, 70, and the 80s. The model is called “Edge of Space” due to the deep blue dial with black sub-dials, domed sapphire crystal, and a titanium micro blasted case. The entire watch has a space-age feel to it, and could have easily belonged on the wrist of Dr. David Bowman as he dismantled HAL 9000 in the movie, 2001 Space Odyssey.  HAL 9000: “Good morning Dave, you can stop that chronograph now; I am afraid the pod bay door will remain closed”.

El Primero Revival A384 Edge of Space Limited Edition Wrist shot

The A384 borrows design cues from Zenith’s various historical models.  The tachymeter is a replica of 1984/86 El Primero; the sub dials are inspired by the 146-HP movement from 1970; and the case shape and dial font is copied from the original A384 from 1969. BWD transforms the rather subdued A384 into a bold statement time piece. George Bamford, founder of BWD, states ““I am so excited to be working on another limited edition created by the amazing team at Zenith exclusively for Mr Porter. Using the historic case of the El Primero A384, this edition feels almost like a prototype straight out of Zenith’s skunk works, with a titanium case and a black-blue dial paired back to the essential elements of the original A384, creating a fresh interpretation of this watch model. The classic references meeting the modern design has been an amazing process from a designer and manufacturer perspective.”

El Primero Revival A384 'Edge of Space' Limited Edition

The 37mm titanium tonneau case has a dark grey micro blasted finishing, like the Heuer/Orfina/Sinn Porsche Design flieger chronogrpahs of the 70s.  It is a major upgrade from the brushed stainless steel case of the normal A384 anniversary edition. The deep blue lacquered dial with black sub-dials is stunning, and yet it maintains good legibility with contrasting white text and date.  The hands are rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Superluminova C1 (blue color lume). The domed sapphire crystal has AR coating on both sides.  However, there is a love/hate relationship with domed crystal – it enhances retro appeal with the dome shape, but the legibility of the dial at the edges is reduced. The dial layout has small seconds counter at nine o’clock, 12-hour counter at six o’clock, 30-minute counter at three o’clock, a central chronograph hand, and date at 4:30.

El Primero Revival A384 'Edge of Space' Limited Edition case back

The A384 Edge of Space is powered by the legendary El Primero 400 automatic movement.  It is a column wheel chronograph beating at high frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 bph) with a power reserve of 50 hours. The watch is limited to 50 pieces with a retail price of $8,600. Even though it is available on November 18, 2019, you can pre-order it on Mr Porter website.

Learn More About Zenith A384 Edge of Space Here

El Primero Revival A384 Edge of Space Limited Edition_soldat (2) El Primero Revival A384 'Edge of Space' Limited Edition (2)

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Watch of the Day: Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm

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Regarded as one of the most collectible chronographs of them all, the much loved El Primero was first launched at a press conference on January 10th, 1969. Timing was not exactly on Zenith’s side at the time, as the launch came just a handful of years ahead of the quartz crisis, when Swiss watchmakers of long-held repute were literally putting vintage watchmaking machinery out in the street for waste disposal, in order to turn their attention to quartz watchmaking.

In fact, had it not been for Zenith watchmaker Charles Vermot, who (against orders) saved all the tools necessary for the manufacture of the El Primero, the means to produce this most coveted watch would have gone exactly the same way.

Perhaps even more remarkable than the good-looking chronograph watch Zenith produced in that year was the chronograph movement itself. Widely acknowledged as being the first column wheel automatic chronograph movement, it became known fittingly as the El Primero; the number one. To this day it is still regarded as one of the most accurate of all movements. At the time Zenith was in close competition to be ‘number one’ with the likes of Seiko. Seiko was busy working on their own automatic chronograph movement, the Caliber 6139.

The Zenith El Primero movement measured just 6.5 mm in height and just over 29 mm in diameter. What made it unusual was its rapid frequency of 36,000 vph/5 Hz, and its power reserve of around 50 hours—a rather high benchmark at the time. The idea behind the high frequency was the more oscillations the watch is able to make per second—or indeed per hour—the faster the watch is able to recover from any knocks or jolts and get back to keeping accurate time more quickly. The higher speed also enables the chronograph to measure elapsed intervals to the nearest 1/10 of a second.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm

There have been innumerable El Primero introductions since 1969, including the high-end Defy series, and for every conceivable reason. Even the Rolling Stones have an El Primero model named after them, but for those seeking to get away from the hype and the noise, Zenith (not for the first time) presents this watch very much as it was originally intended. While this model should not be confused with the exact remake launched in the Zenith El Primero 50th Anniversary Box Set, this 38mm El Primero does hark back to the look of the original watch quite accurately.

All the functions you would expect of an El Primero are present including:

Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and Tachymetric scale and Date at 4:30.

The dial features a silver-toned sunray-patterned dial with three different-colored counters. Hour markers and hands are rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Superluminova.

The watch runs on the Zenith El Primero Calibre 400 automatic movement, the El Primero movement in its purest for with 278 components, 31 jewels, and 36,000 vph.

The Chronomaster El Primero 38mm on bracelet retails for $7,100, whereas the leather strap variant is available for $6,700.

Learn More About The Chronomaster El Primero 38 Here

 

 

 

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Flieger Friday: Zenith Pilot Type 20 Rescue

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Zenith has a credible history of over 100 years with pilot watches, notably with Louis Blériot becoming the first to fly across the English Channel in 1909 with his Zenith pilot watch. Modern Type 20 watches, launched in 2012, take their cues from the Blériot watch with the large case, black dial with large Arabic fonts, cathedral hands, and a large ratcheted crown.

zenith-historic-pilot-bleriot-watch

Each year Zenith builds upon the Type 20 pilot series with new dial and case variations. The brand also issues limited releases to support good causes like the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride to fight prostate cancer. The only mis-step Zenith made was in the early days, when Type 20 watches were powered by Sellita movement. In 2015 Zenith re-released the Type 20 Pilot watch by replacing Sellita movement with an in-house Elite movement.  Type 20 Pilot chronograph continued to be powered by El Primero movement.  This move was well received by watch enthusiasts and retailers.

This week Zenith, which is part of the LVMH group, announced two new watches at their Dubai event.  Both Type 20 Rescue and Type 20 Chronograph Rescue are a first in the series with a stainless steel case and sunray dial.  Until now, the collection had been using a combination of aged case materials and textured colored dials to emulate an early 20th century look.  Combination of steel case and slate grey sunray dial offers a more contemporary aesthetic.

ZENITH_PILOT TYPE 20 RESCUE and CHRONOGRAPH

Both pilot watches have a 45mm case diameter in brushed stainless steel, and a domed sapphire crystal with AR coating on both sides.  The lugs are narrow; hence the watch wears smaller on the wrist. Both dials have oversized Arabic numerals entirely made of SuperLuminova for ultimate legibility. The focus on the dial remains on time only without date complication. The rhodium-plated hands have a generous coat of SNL C1 SuperLuminova. Another contemporary aspect of Type 20 Rescue watches is the yellow accents on dial, hands, and the strap.  According to Zenith, yellow is a recurring color in the world of aircrafts that grabs the attention for vital controls and information.

The three-hand pilot is powered by Elite 679 caliber with a central hour, minutes and seconds hands, and a power reserve of 50 hours.  The pilot chronograph is powered by automatic El Primero 4069 column-wheel movement, and has hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock, central chronograph hand, and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. It is a pleasure to wind this butter-smooth movement with the big screw-in crown, possibly the closest experience to winding a pocket watch on wrist. Both pilot watches have a stainless steel case-back engraved with the Zenith flying instruments logo, and they are accompanied with a black vintage calfskin leather strap with rivets.

ZENITH_PILOT TYPE 20 RESCUE CHRONOGRAPH

Both Type 20 Rescue watches make for solid modern pilot watches with credible history and movements. Interesting point to note is the pricing – the three-hand pilot (Ref 03.2434.679/20.I010) is $7,100, and the pilot chronograph (Ref 03.2434.4069/20.I010) is $7,600.  For $500 more you are getting the famous El Primero chronograph movement, which makes for a compelling choice, especially since the case size of both the watches are the same.

Learn More About Zenith Pilot Type 20 Rescue Here

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The Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition – It Looks Good, But Does the Land Rover Bit Matter?

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The inaugural LVMH Watch Week hosted in Dubai a few weeks ago saw a bunch of headline-grabbing releases from Bulgari (Octo Finissimos all round!) and Hublot (hello new bracelet). TAG Heuer is holding fire for now, but even its announcement of a Heuer 02-powered Heritage Carrera is impressive.

And then there was Zenith. Historically, they’ve been a brand with major ups and downs, and are coming off a couple of up years with the Defy Inventor and the 50th anniversary of its hero, the El Primero. Sure, there’s a bit of trimming to do in the catalogue, but they’re in a pretty good place, and the brand’s LVMHWW — is that really the acronym? — releases reflect that. They include: a revamp of the Elite, a wonderful-looking women’s Defy and some limited editions.

Including the Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition. It’s an attractive, matte grey ceramic Defy 21 — powered by the impressive El Primero update that can clock times to within 1/100th of a second — with a closed dial and matching rubber strap. The general consensus is that it’s a pretty hot-looking watch, if a tad on the large side at 44mm (which is big, but not ridiculous for the genre). But there’s one topic that’s come up in every one of the dozen or so chats I’ve had about this watch in the last week. And that’s about the Land Rover tie-in. These comments have ranged from mild confusion to downright derision and scorn.

Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition

To each and every one of these discussions, my response has been “Does that matter?” I don’t think it does. Look, the press release take on it is that this watch embodies the resilient spirit of the new Land Rover Defender. Do I buy that? Not particularly. If you’re charitable, the grey with orange highlights is in the right color palette, and the watch and the car are both luxury objects that tip their hats at ruggedness.

But really, that doesn’t matter. Zenith and Land Rover have a corporate partnership, and that means we get Land Rover limited editions every so often. I’m sure there are a few die-hard fans out there who are sold on the partnership, and some Zenith VIPs get a cool Land Rover drive day, but apart from that, no one is bothered. Except the people who enjoy complaining about (very) minor perceived wrongs.

Only there’s nothing wrong with it. We’ve now got a great-looking limited edition — one of a long list of great-looking watches with vague partnership affiliations. More than that though, it actually serves a useful purpose. Making a grey Defy 21 with a matte solid dial and a linear power reserve wouldn’t have made sense if it was introduced into their main collection. But as an LE, go ahead. What’s more, if it sells like hot cakes or the feedback is overwhelmingly positive, you can bet that we’ll see elements introduced into regular production. This is how watch designs are refined and developed. So really, you could argue that the testing ground of the Land Rover editions (and other limited-edition collaborations) leads to better watches all around.

The post The Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition – It Looks Good, But Does the Land Rover Bit Matter? appeared first on watchuseek.com.


Watch Of The Day: Movado Zenith Automatic ref. 2572

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It’s a Zenith. It’s a Movado. It’s an affordable piece of ’70s goodness that caught our eye earlier today, because sometimes we just need to keep it weird, you know? From 1969 to the early ’80s (reported as anywhere from ’81 to ’84 depending on who you ask), Zenith and Movado were part of a conglomerate group that included Mondia. This arrangements helped both brands weather the storm of the quartz crisis, and also helped Zenith push further into the North American market. As a byproduct, there was a decent amount of co-branding and movement sharing taking place, as is the case with this strange 38mm cushion cased piece.

Movado zenith automatic 2572

As part of our ongoing series with eBay (including our large digest on their Authenticate consumer protection program), we stumbled across this watch as we skimmed page after page of authenticated watch listings, and given its sub-$1k list price it seemed worthy of a closer look. Sure, there are heaps of cushion cased oddities that surfaced in the ’70s, but when was the last time you saw one with such an out-of the ordinary scalloped case? Add to that its oversized tall applied markers, and simple white hands to match its dial indices and minute track? From a design standpoint this thing dances a great line of clever, thoughtful, and especially out of the ordinary.

Being nearly 50 years old by now, this piece is in reasonable shape. There are certainly some minor nicks and dings on its case, but it doesn’t appear to be too severely overpolished. Its hands and dial show the right amount of age, without signs of blemishes or corrosion, and its crown, caseback, and crystal all appear to be original, as is the promise with Authenticate program pieces. It is noted in the listing that its strap is a replacement, and thanks to its 20mm lug width it will be easy to find other strap combinations that suit its design.

movado zenith auto watch

Given that this piece is of the ‘co-branding’ era, it is appropriately fitted with one of Zenith’s automatic calibers—specifically the 17-jewel automatic caliber 2572PC. The movement is a simple unit, displaying time and date (with quickset), and is reported to have a power reserve of 44 to 46 hours, which is higher than the usual 38-42 of comparable ETA and Sellita automatic calibers. Based on the available imagery, this example seems to be in fairly clean condition overall.

Zenith movado automatic 2572 movement

As it stands, this piece is listed with a Buy It Now price of $898 USD, without a Make An Offer option this time around. It’s not the cheapest we’ve ever seen one of these models sell for, but given the overall clean and honest condition that’s not a bad number, especially considering that the Authenticate program puts to bed any risks related to authenticity and disclosures relating to the watch. You can find the full listing at the link below. Also, head over to the Watch Of The Day page to find other unique pieces we’ve found hiding in eBay’s sales archives.

 

Shop The Zenith Movado Cal. 2572 Here

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